Our trip to the DMZ

Photo United Nations Checkpoint in DMZ
Great Wall of China, Opera House, Angkor Wat, Eiffel Tower, Berlin Wall as some of the many places you would put in your list of places to see, and I guess when I knew that South Korea was going to be our home for some time the DMZ was then high on the agenda to see, discover, and most importantly better understand.
Since arriving in Korea I have read daily the press reports of the growing tension in this part of the world, in particular, North Korea's reported nuclear programme, and the roller coaster of a possible re-unification process. This
continued to arouse my eagerness to visit the DMZ and finally get a grasp of what this all means. Leading up to the trip I had mentioned to a few of the staff we were going to do this trip and they all have their opinions on the DMZ and how it has affected them or their families in some way. Most though fear that the poor people of the North would not create any benefit to the savvy intellectuals of the south. I see how this stand-off could last this long.
As with the last tour we did, the concierge made the reservation and dead on 7.00am to tour guide showed up and escorted us onto a tour bus with approximately 25 like -minded tourists from Japan and USA, who were as curious as us to see for themselves the DMZ.

As we picked up the last of the anxious tourists we started out 80 minute drive to the DMZ in the North of Seoul or South Korea. As we started to encroach on the farming lands I could not help myself start to think about all those "MASH" episodes. I think it was long after watching those episodes as a kid did I realize this was not a ww2 series but a Korean War series.
Anyway, ss we got closer to the DMZ, the highway skirted the edge of the Han River. What could have been any waterway in rural Asia is distinguished by the barbwire topped fencing and regular military guard stations that runs for miles between the road and the river's edge. The reason for this is that there is a large river in North Korea that runs into the Han River and North Korean spy's have been know in the past to use the Han River as a way of infiltrating South Korea.

FREEDOM BRIDGE
Before entering the DMZ, our first stop was at the "Freedom Bridge" a simple wooden structure, no more than 15 feet wide that was the access to freedom for the thousands of North Koreans who poured over this bridge at the end of the war. Many prisoners from both sides were actually given a choice weather to cross the bridge or not. I am sure little did most know that still some 50 + years later they could never see their loved ones on the other side! It has been said that an estimated 5 million Korean families are dived by the DMZ. With no method of communication available for South Koreans with family in the North, this simple gate at the end of the bridge represents their only avenue to reach out to loved ones that they have not seen or heard from for over 50 years. It is this gate that is filled with hundreds of messages on everything from paper to bed sheets from loved ones, expressing their feelings of helpliness. With no chance of these messages being read by the intended recipients, this act is more symbolic than practical.
After changing buses, we drove to a checkpoint where our passports are viewed by armed South Korean Military, and then we are taken into the DMZ. Our first stop was the brand new and almost never used Dorasan Station, the northern most train station in South Korea. This modern, spacious station has been constructed in preparation for the day that trains can run freely from Seoul in the South to Pyeongyang in the North. The platform signs already direct passengers to the "Track for Seoul or Pyeongyang". With only 3 trains a day from Seoul, the South Korean soldiers on duty have little but stand around for photos with visiting tourists and watch over the concrete slab signed by President Bush at the opening in May 2002.

3RD TUNNEL
Our 2nd stop in the DMZ was to the 3rd infiltration tunnel. Our Korean guide told us that this is one of 4 tunnels found in the 1970's on evidence provided by a North Korean engineer who defected to the South. According to her explanation, up to 20 tunnels were constructed by the North through the DMZ as part of an invasion strategy. This 1.6km tunnel would apparently allow 30,000 invading soldiers to pass through per hour into South Korea.
To get into the tunnel we walked down this steep declining tunnel over400 metres long with construction hard hats and only a thin rail to grab if we were to get a little our of balance. We then walked another 250 metres at the bottom of the tunnel through another tunnel that was built by the North Koreans. At the end of the 250 metres we reached the point of no return we barbed why and heavily fortified doors stop you from going in further. Not surprisingly, a dispute still exists between the two sides over who built the tunnels! But as we walk along, our attention is drawn to the "evidence" of the North's construction of the tunnels. drill marks on the walls facing the South. "Who to believe"!

Forgot to mention, before entering the tunnel, we are taken through a detailed history display of the Korean conflict. Included in the museum is an elaborate 3 screened display on the past present and future of the DMZ. In this 6 minute multi-media presentation are heart wrenching scenes of the two family reunion events of North and South Korean families.My guide told us with considerable bitterness that those chosen to participate in these events were from the wealthy, well-connected or academic elite. The images on the screens of the reunions showed such raw emotion that many visitors walk away wiping tears from their eyes.
Unification Observatory
Our final stop on our bizarre DMZ tour was the Unification Observatory on Mt Odu. After coming so far we were only able to see a little of North Korea as it was such a cloudy day. But through binoculars we could see in the distance several North Korean Military posts on the other side of the DMZ. Looking into the DMZ I could see how this un-touched environment could be filled with such an abundance of flaura and fauna. We filled in our time at this stop by taking in the displays in the Unification Exhibition Hall, a collection of exhibits featuring North Korean produced electronic goods, clothing, food and school books. The products by western standards were simple, cheap looking and everything from the paper of the textbooks to the material of the mismatched business suit was of poor quality.

Our visit to the DMZ greatly enhanced our knowledge of Korea's tragic history and fragile present. We "saw" North Korea (or at least the view the North was willing to provide and the South wanted me to see). Our drive back to Seoul was solemn with most of the Americans asking the guide a million more questions, but really I could see in her eyes that some questions should not be answered. This was no Disneyland Tour and no fireworks or Dancing Shows. It was a reality check, reminding us that the DMZ is the last place on earth where walls still separate two nations, yet one peoples. It also reminds you that the Korean War is still not over, as only a truce was made over 50 years ago, and still no treaty has been signed.